Sunday and Thursday, 5 large boats have appeared to start hauling big
loads of merchandise, including Primus beer (surprise surprise) across
the river. Two of these boats were brought from Komanda where "Broken
Bridge emergency response / organized absolute chaos" was not so
distantly experienced. At Komanda, the piroguier assocation charged
$50-100 for each of dozens of vehicles which crossed the river
everyday. Markets on both sides must have employed 500 people. Now
some of the same people from Komanda are responding to this broken
bridge by bringing their boats. Also, many locals are enjoying
newfound profits made as restaurateurs, truck cutters, and porters of
planks, beer, and merchandise.
The park guard association ICCN, is keeping pretty good control.
Crossing hours commence at 600h and finish promptly at 1800h. They
have a guy with a loud speaker and says something in Swahili, like
"You are in a 'conservation zone integrale'", which at least
subconciously lets people know they can't do whatever they want.
Vehicles must stay more than 1 km away from the bridge while they wait
their turn to offload their merchandise by the river side. Then the
village chief and police collect $20 for the privilege of offloading
their merchandise. The prices on all the stuff that crosses the river
is undoubtedly marked up for these petty charges and delays.
We are dealing pretty well with the situation, trading fuel with ICCN
and Gilman Conservation who are on the other side of the river. Papa
Michel, my favorite sentinel at our compound is at least 60 yrs old
and somewhat hard of hearing, but has managed to keep lunatics out of
our compound. We're even guarding someone's vehicles as they continue
on to Kisangani and will return for their vehicles after a few weeks.
As Papa Michel proudly recounted, the ICCN granted these people
permission to leave their vehicles in our compound because "Il y a
beaucoup de sécurité la bas/There is lots of security over there".
The serenity which makes Epulu so charming is gone for the moment.
There is no walking out over the bridge alone to watch a full moon
glance of the rushing river. Instead, there are the incessant beeps
of Nile Coach buses, motor bikes vrooming, and the distant crashes of
who knows what. Also, there are people everywhere outside of our
compound and the ICCN station. Mostly people are acting ok - they
seem to know this is Wildlife Reserve, and there are certain rules and
restrictions. They're also enjoying the opportunity to make a few
dollars.
