These are a naive traveler's views of a mysterious land. The Democratic Republic of Congo was formerly called Zaire, meaning "the river that swallows all rivers", evoking the grand scale of the basin that drains tropical central Africa. Congo is home to vibrant cultures, unimaginable resource wealth and biodiversity. The history of the Congo is marred by dark colonial heritage, poverty, disease and war. The puzzle is that the problems exist because of its riches.
Friday, December 17, 2010
Gorilla Tracking!
Kahuzi-Biega National Park in eastern DR Congo, is a World Heritage Site, due to its universal value to conservation. It used to harbor 75% of the eastern lowland gorilla (gorilla gorilla graueri), which is only found in DR Congo. The range of these gorillas was literally invaded by warring and anarchy over the last 15 years. Kahuzi-Biega was the scene of massive mineral exploitation - invaded by as many as 30,000 miners, all of who had to eat!
These gorillas were even hunted for bushmeat - killing many of the groups which had been habituated to tourism...very very sad.
However, park management has worked hard to counter negative forces - mining and rebel groups in the park, to protect its gorillas. Kahuzi-Biega was the site of the first gorilla group habituated to tourism - and here I am with the old man who was there at the beginning - Bwana Pilipili (basically his name is hotsauce or pepper :-).
Now tourism is open, and there are 2 groups habituated - including Chimanuka's group. His name means Eureka! - because after the war, park guards feared that all silverbacks had been lost, but he was found. He now is the silverback leader of 37 individuals! He and his 16 females very productive - now with 20 children, including 4 sets of twins! It is an amazing experience to spend a few minutes with gorillas - thinking about how they've resisted, how their Congolese protectors have persisted, and just watching them eat, play and watch you! Truly an international treasure.
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